The New Era of Restaurant Criticism: NYT Appoints Tejal Rao and Ligaya Mishan as Co-Chief Critics
The New Era of Restaurant Criticism: NYT Appoints Tejal Rao and Ligaya Mishan as Co-Chief Critics
The New York Times has just shaken the culinary journalism world with a groundbreaking move—naming Tejal Raoand Ligaya Mishan as its first-ever co-chief restaurant critics. The announcement signals not just a passing of the torch, but the beginning of a bold new era—one defined by expansion, transparency, and deeper cultural engagement across the national food scene.
Together, Tejal and Ligaya will redefine what it means to be a restaurant critic in 2025. This appointment isn’t just symbolic; it’s part of a larger shift to broaden The Times’ food coverage—more starred reviews, more travel, more video, and more personality.
What’s Changing? Everything.
Tejal, who will continue to be based in California, and Ligaya, operating out of New York, will both travel nationwide to explore the American culinary landscape. For the first time, starred reviews won’t be confined to NYC. That tradition is being broken—on purpose. From the streets of Los Angeles to the diners of the Midwest and the fine-dining temples of the South, Rao and Mishan will highlight what’s most relevant, exciting, and reflective of our times.
But New York isn’t going anywhere. In fact, the coverage in the Big Apple is only getting stronger. A growing team of trusted contributors will also be writing brief, starred reviews to ensure even more monthly recommendations for readers.
No More Hiding Behind the Pen
Another major shift? The critics will no longer remain anonymous. The Times is ditching decades of mystery in favor of authenticity. While Rao and Mishan will still dine under aliases and pay for every meal per NYT policy, they’re stepping into the spotlight. Videos, app features, and social media appearances will now give readers a face—and a voice—to go with the byline.
This evolution aligns with how audiences now engage with media. People want to know who’s shaping their opinions. In The Times’ words, this move is about building “trust” and creating more human, transparent storytelling in the food space.
Meet the Critics Behind the Movement
Tejal Rao is no stranger to the game. Since joining The Times in 2016, she’s worn many hats: restaurant cook, Village Voice critic, Bloomberg food writer, and columnist for the Sunday Magazine. Most recently, she served as a critic at large, covering global food culture. Born abroad and raised across continents before landing in Atlanta, Tejal now lives in L.A. with her husband, daughter, and dogs.
Ligaya Mishan has been a consistent creative force at The Times for over two decades. Her Hungry City column (2012–2020) became essential reading, and her longform work for T Magazine, The New Yorker, and The New York Review of Books showcases a voice that’s literary, poetic, and profoundly observant. Born and raised in Honolulu, she currently resides in New York with her family.
A Nod to the Interim Trailblazers
The Times also gave a heartfelt shoutout to Priya Krishna and Melissa Clark, who held down the role of interim critics with grace, style, and integrity. Their work on-camera helped pave the way for the new visual-forward era The Times is now embracing.
Why It Matters
This isn’t just an editorial shakeup—it’s a cultural reset. With two deeply respected, diverse voices at the helm, The New York Times is doubling down on meaningful restaurant criticism rooted in identity, place, and perspective. From local gems to national icons, Tejal and Ligaya are poised to capture the soul of American dining like never before.
We’re watching a historic chapter unfold in real time—and the table is officially set.
